I take it that shocking with this sanitizer may be adding too much bromine, too much CYA, and not reactiving the existing bromine?Īnyways, I've drained and started from scratch. Is the latter one a chlorine I'm guessing? I take it that there is chlorine in the 2-in-1 bromine sanitizer? The bottle says 14.7% sodium bromide and 82.5% sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione. I'm a bit confused about the statement "your chlorine is what generates the bromine from bromide.", as I'm not using chlorine. I think that Dlleno is right that the high CYA levels may have been inhibiting the bromine. in your situation I think I would purge with ahh-some and restart. Im a big fan of SIMPLE - there is no need to use a floater for bromine (unless you want to) and you can maintain a bromine spa exactly as you would a chlorine spa - with granula chlorine. I think I would advocate for starting over, in this case. and since you are "shocking" with bromine you are also contributing to the CYA level - because bromine is generated by oxidizing bromide salts. So you end up using even more chlorine just to obtain bromine! ergo, an ever-increasing level of CYA. so you would have a catch-22: your chlorine is what generates bromine from bromide, but your chlorine is so heavily moderated by CYA that it isn't a very effective oxidizer. however, with CYA levels 10 times the recommended normal for Spas, I would start to wonder if you are using extraordinary amounts of chlorine just to generate the bromine. that is, CYA does not moderate the strength of bromine. Another way to reduce cyanuric acid build-up is to use a Nature2 Express purifier, or an ozonator or a UV system, or an ionizer – all of which can allow you to reduce your chlorine tablet consumption by as much as 50%, so 50% less cya added to the pool on a daily basis, should go twice as long before draining is needed.By itself, CYA is a relative "don't care" as regards bromine. And since we are on a salt water pool chemistry blog post, if you use a salt chlorinator, this won’t add any cyanuric to the pool, only what you manually add to the pool water. There is a product called Bio-Active that works to remove cyanuric acid levels, and this year Natural Chemistry is launching a product to remove cya. For pools in arid regions, with a cartridge filter, that operate year round, I understand that some pools using stabilized trichlor tablets (3″ tabs) can rise naturally to high levels within a few seasons, if some water replacement is not done. For pools that in the snowbelt, that get regularly rain fall and who backwash a sand or DE filter regularly, and then lower the water level by 1-2′ in winter, there usually is not a problem with cyanuric acid build-up. Hi Michael, how fast cyanuric acid builds up in a pool depends on rain fall and fill-water rates to a large degree, and also if the pool operates year around, or winterizes. Passive corrosion can affect soft porous stones and concrete around the pool. But even at low levels, galvanic corrosion can occur to stainless steel equipment (filters, lights, ladders) that is not properly bonded. Salt levels in a salt pool are usually quite low, under 3500 ppm. Salt is a corrosive substance, which is why winter road salt creates problems for concrete and steel. The pH rise noticed by some salt chlorinator users may be a result of the outgassing of carbon dioxide, as water is agitated through the salt cell with hydrogen production.Ī simpler answer is that Trichlor tablets, which have a very low pH, tends to suppress pH levels, or drive them lower over time, and in their absence, pH levels will naturally drift higher. However, the acids and bases created by your salt cell will neutralize each other with very little net pH change. In a salt pool, when electrolysis occurs (within the pipe), the products are hypochlorous acid, which is very acidic (as you may assume), and sodium hydroxide which is very basic.
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